| | |  | Platform | Home » » » » REDLINE® Alloy Platform SB Pedals w/Replaceable Pins 9/16" Sealed Bearing Black | | | | | | | Description: | | Strong aluminum one-piece body with concave design for minimal foot slippage. Also features replaceable screw-in pins and sealed bearings. Great for Downhill and DS. | | | Product Details: | | | Average Customer Rating:
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Average Customer Review:
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Is "SB" sealed bearing or sleeve bearing?Jul 03, 2008
By Philip J. Bohlken
The plastic factory pedals on my new road bike began to deteriorate after about 4,500 miles. I did not want a 2-piece pedal held together with screws. In my past experience a screw or two loosen a little and the pedal creaks in use. I also wanted a platform pedal rather than a clip-in pedal for a couple of reasons.
I should have ordered the loose ball type and saved some money, but I did not see them right away in the 9/16" thread size. Sealed bearing pedals are often recommended as better. But, in this case "SB" does not necessarily mean "sealed ball or roller bearing." The $40 price should be enough to provide two sealed ball bearings. But, after about 100 miles I noticed a little tick, tick in the right pedal when my foot came around to the 11 o'clock position. This usually indicates a dry or poorly adjusted bearing. I removed the end cap and the retaining nut. Yes, there is a sealed ball bearing at the outer end of the spindle. But, the rest of the pedal has only a sleeve bearing surface smeared with a moderately heavy grease. I paid $40 for sleeve bearings in my pedals! Now I am wondering if the loose ball bearing pedals have two sets of bearing balls (inner and outer ends of the spindle) or if they also use a sleeve bearing on the inner portion of the spindle.
These pedals weigh almost one pound each, but they are solid. I rode my usual ride in rubber soled canvas shoes. The gripping screws in the pedals never let my foot slip. I rode without toe clips and I kept a smooth pedal stroke with power to the pedals from one foot or the other through the entire rotation. My time for my usual ride was almost as good as a very good finish time with toe clips. Obviously, I could not pull on the upstroke.
I have now added toe clips to these pedals. The necessary screw holes are built into the pedals, but do not line up like they should. I think the plastic toe clips are flexible enough that I can make them work satisfactorily.
I wanted to remove the gripping screws on one side of the pedals so my foot can slip in and out of the toe clips when riding. But, the gripping screws defy any attempt for me to remove them. The holes for them are not threaded, but the screws are self-tapping. They go in, but they do not come out. I ground them off on one side of the pedals. Extra screws were supplied with the pedals, but they do little good unless old worn screws can be removed.
There are openings in the sides of the pedals that will pass a toe clip strap, although the openings are larger than necessary. The sides of the pedals angle inward toward the front and back so a strap has plenty of clearance at the crankarm.
These pedals are more for a BMX bike than a road bike. The black finish is a plastic coating rather than paint. I suspect some of it will wear through from use.
I would have given these pedals many more stars except $40 pedals should not have sleeve bearings in them!
Update: The heavy grease on the sleeve bearing caused more resistance between the spindle and the pedal. My right pedal threaded itself out. I did not notice it until damage was already done to my crank threads. I know I must not have torqued the right pedal enough to keep this from happening. But, recently I had to remove and install a right pedal on another bike without a proper wrench for torquing the pedal spindle in the crank. It is a loose ball bearing type pedal. I have over 100 miles on it and there is no sign it will thread itself out. If you buy these pedals, tighten the right pedal very well.
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